CHOCOLATE
Thursday 15th October 8.00pm


Chocolate Truffles
Makes about 500g

  • 450g fine chocolate
  • 275ml whipping cream
  • cocoa powder for dusting

Chop the chocolate finely; the pieces should be about the same size as gravel. They will melt more successfully if they are all of roughly equal size. A large, heavy cook¹s knife will make the chopping easier than using a small one.

Put the chopped chocolate in a large heatproof bowl. If the bowl is warm it will help the chocolate to melt. Bring the cream to the boil in a small pan. Just as it reaches boiling point, remove from the heat and pour slowly into the chocolate, beating gently with a wooden spoon. The chocolate should all melt into a thick, glossy, dark-brown cream. If there are lumps left, then you will have to put the bowl over a pan of hot, almost simmering, water until they melt. But take care not to overheat it, which will result in the mixture separating and curdling.

Place the basin of chocolate in the fridge to stiffen. Depending on the temperature inside your fridge, the mixture will need about an hour to thicken. (It should not set solid, although if it does, just melt it over hot water and refrigerate again.) Now you have a choice: thick, solid, luxurious truffles or softer, lighter ones. If you prefer, as I do, an unwhipped truffle with a rich texture, then leave the mix as it is. If you like a soft, airy truffle, beat the mixture with an electric whisk for a minute or so until it starts to change colour. It will become paler and fill with air. Overwhipping will curdle the truffle mixture.

Using two teaspoons, scoop out balls of truffle and drop them into the cocoa powder. The size is a matter of choice. I like a large truffle; others may prefer to make a smaller one that can be eaten in one go. Roll them lightly into rounds if you wish, though I prefer them as rough-textured lumps. Roll the truffles in the cocoa, then leave them in a cool place for an hour to set.


Chocolate-Coated Truffles
Makes about 500g

  • the truffles as before
  • 375g fine plain chocolate
  • cocoa powder for dusting

Chop the chocolate finely and put about two-thirds of it into a large heatproof bowl. Balance the bowl comfortably over a large pan of hot water. The heat need not be on under the pan; I usually bring the water to the boil, then turn off the heat before placing the basin of chocolate on top. The bottom of the bowl should not touch the water, which will cause the chocolate to overheat. Resist the temptation to do anything but stir very occasionally and very gently.

If you have a kitchen thermometer, heat the chocolate until it reaches 48­55°C. If you have no thermometer, heat the chocolate until it is completely liquid, with no lumps of solid chocolate in it. Add the remaining chopped chocolate to the liquid chocolate. It will become partially solid. Leave it to melt over the hot water again.

Carefully lift each truffle with a couple of forks and dip into the liquid chocolate. Drop into the cocoa powder, roll very lightly and leave in a cool place to harden.


Chocolate Sauces

We want different chocolate sauces for different occasions. Something dark and serious for pouring over cold vanilla ice-cream, which will set instantly to a wafer-thin, crisp shell; a glossy, sticky sauce for pouring into an over-the-top ice-cream sundae or where you need the chocolate to stay liquid even when cold; and a milky, fudgy, nutty one for occasional moments of sheer gluttony.

A Good Chocolate Sauce

  • 250g fine plain chocolate
  • 2 tablespoons strong black coffee (espresso is ideal)
  • 300ml whipping cream
  • a knob of butter about the size of a walnut

Break the chocolate into small pieces so that it melts easily. Put it into a heavy-bottomed saucepan with the coffee and the cream. Heat slowly, stirring from time to time, until the chocolate has melted. It is essential that the heat is kept low. Once the chocolate is softened, stir until smooth, then stir in the butter and pour into a warm jug. Serve warm.

A Sweet, Shiny Chocolate Sundae Sauce

  • 175g fine plain chocolate
  • 50g butter
  • 50g caster sugar
  • 2 tablespoons golden syrup
  • 200ml milk

Break the chocolate into squares and melt it, with the butter, in a bowl set over a pan of hot water. Stir in the sugar and syrup until dissolved, then pour in the milk and continue to cook, stirring often, until the sauce thickens.

Chocolate Toblerone Sauce

  • 200g dark Toblerone
  • 30g butter
  • 100ml whipping cream

Break the Toblerone into triangles, then chop it finely. Melt it in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Don¹t be tempted to stir it too much; just leave it be until it is completely soft. Add the butter and stir until melted, then gently stir in the cream. The sauce is now ready to use.


Nigella Lawson¹s Sticky Chocolate Pudding
Serves 6

  • 150g self-raising flour
  • 25g good-quality cocoa powder
  • 200g caster sugar
  • 50g ground hazelnuts
  • 75g dark chocolate buttons (or dark chocolate, chopped)
  • 180ml full cream milk
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 40g butter, melted
  • 1 free range egg

    For the sauce:

  • 180g dark muscovado sugar
  • 120g good-quality cocoa powder, sifted
  • 500ml very hot water

Put all the dry ingredients ­ the flour, cocoa, sugar, ground hazelnuts and chocolate pieces ­ in a large mixing bowl. Whisk together the milk, vanilla extract, melted butter and egg. Pour into the bowl containing the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly.

Pour the mixture into a large, buttered soufflé dish, about 20cm in diameter. Mix the muscovado sugar and cocoa together and sprinkle on top of the pudding. Pour the hot water on top ­ there is no need to stir ­ and put in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas 4. After thirty-five to forty minutes the pudding should be firm and springy. Serve at once, with cold pouring cream.


Hot Chocolate Pudding
Serves 4

  • 150g fine dark chocolate
  • a little butter
  • 75g caster sugar
  • 4 large free range eggs, separated

Break the chocolate into small pieces and put it in a pudding basin in a large saucepan. Pour enough water into the pan to come half-way up the sides of the basin, then place over a moderate heat until the chocolate has melted. There is no need to stir at all, but you should check that the heat is turned very low or even off as soon as the chocolate starts to soften.

Meanwhile, rub a smidgeon of butter round the inside of the dish and sprinkle it with a very little of the measured sugar. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until they are pale and fluffy ­ I use one of those hand-held electric beaters. Wash the whisks and dry them carefully, then beat the egg whites in a separate bowl until thick and standing in peaks.

Working quickly but gently, fold the melted chocolate into the egg yolks and sugar (a rubber spatula will help here) and then fold in the beaten egg whites. Fold slowly and deeply so that you disperse the whites into the chocolate mixture but without losing any of the air. Overmixing will result in a flat pudding. Scoop the mixture into the prepared dish and bake for twenty-five minutes in an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas 6.

The pudding is done when it is spongy almost through to the centre, where it should still be very slightly creamy. Serve with double cream.


Chocolate Apple Betty
Serves 4, with cream or vanilla ice-cream

  • 1kg Bramley apples, peeled and cored
  • 30g butter

    For the crumb layer:

  • 125g soft white breadcrumbs
  • 100g light soft brown sugar
  • 100g dark chocolate, roughly chopped
  • 75g butter, melted
  • 3 heaped tablespoons golden syrup

Cut the apples into large chunks, put them in a pan and toss with the butter and a couple of tablespoons of water over a moderate heat. When the apples start to soften but are still keeping their shape, tip them into a 1.5 litre baking dish.

Mix the crumbs, sugar and chocolate and cover the apples loosely with the mixture. Melt the butter with the golden syrup in a small saucepan, then pour it over the crumbs, making certain to soak them all. Bake in an oven preheated to 190°C/Gas 5 for thirty-five minutes, till the apple is soft and the crumbs are golden and crisp.


Rowley Leigh¹s Hot Chocolate Soufflé
Serves 6

  • melted butter, caster sugar and cocoa powder to coat
  • the soufflé dishes
  • 250ml full cream milk
  • 20g good-quality cocoa powder
  • 50g good-quality dark chocolate, roughly chopped
  • 1 tablespoon arrowroot, fécule (potato flour) or cornflour
  • 3 free range egg yolks
  • 30g caster sugar
  • 6 free range egg whites
  • a squeeze of lemon juice
  • icing sugar and cocoa powder for dusting the finished soufflés
  • pistachio ice-cream, to serve

Brush six 10cm soufflé dishes with melted butter and coat with some caster sugar rolled around the base and sides. Put them in the fridge or freezer to harden. Repeat with more melted butter and a mixture of cocoa powder and sugar in equal amounts. This will ensure a clean and even rise when the soufflés cook. Keep the dishes chilled till needed.

Put the milk in a pan and add the cocoa, pieces of chocolate and arrowroot. Bring to the boil over a medium heat, whisking all the time till the mixture thickens. Remove the pan from the heat. Put the egg yolks and half the sugar in a bowl and pour the chocolate mixture over them, stirring continuously. Once the mixture is smooth, let it cool a little. Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt and a squeeze of lemon. Start at a slow speed, then increase the speed as you add the remaining sugar one teaspoon at a time. Loosen the chocolate mixture by mixing in one tablespoon of the egg white meringue, and then fold the egg white and chocolate mixture together until thoroughly incorporated, with no flecks of egg white remaining.

Divide the mixture evenly between the prepared dishes and cook in a bain-marie in an oven preheated to 220°C/Gas 7 for ten minutes. Before serving, dust with icing sugar and cocoa. Make a hole in the top of each soufflé and drop in a scoop of pistachio ice-cream as you serve them.


Pears with Florentine Cream
Serves 4

  • 100g golden caster sugar
  • a litre of water
  • a little lemon juice
  • a vanilla pod
  • 8 small pears
  • 200ml double or whipping cream
  • a little vanilla extract
  • 100g small Florentine biscuits or brandy snaps
  • 100g fine dark chocolate

Dissolve the sugar in the water over a low heat and add a few drops of lemon juice and the vanilla pod. Peel the pears, cut them in half, take out the core and drop the fruit into the syrup. With the pan covered, bring the syrup to the boil, then turn down the heat immediately. Let the pears simmer very gently until translucent and tender to the point of a knife. Depending on the ripeness of the fruit this should take about fifteen minutes, but could take longer if the pears are hard. They really must be butter soft if they are to be good.

Let the pears cool in the syrup for a good hour, then lift them out and put them in a shallow dish in the fridge. Whip the cream softly ­ it shouldn¹t be too stiff ­ with a drop or two of vanilla extract. Roughly chop the biscuits, then fold them into the cream.

Break the chocolate into small pieces and place in a small bowl set over a pan of simmering water. When the chocolate has melted, turn off the heat. Remove the pears from the fridge and fill the hollows in each one with Florentine cream. Drizzle the melted chocolate over the fruit, then let them stand in the fridge for twenty minutes to crisp the chocolate. Serve within half an hour.


White Chocolate Cardamom Mousse
Serves 6-8

  • 8 plump green cardamom pods
  • 100ml milk
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 250g white chocolate
  • 300ml double cream
  • 3 free range egg whites
  • best-quality cocoa powder for dusting

Break the cardamom pods open and extract the seeds. Crush them lightly, then add them to the milk and bay leaves in a small saucepan. Warm the seasoned milk over a moderate heat until it approaches the boil. Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, break the chocolate into small pieces and melt in a bowl balanced over a pan of gently simmering water. It is best if the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Overheating the chocolate will cause it to go lumpy, so as soon as it starts to melt, turn off the heat but leave the bowl in place.

Whip the cream so that it forms soft mounds rather than peaks. In other words it should not be too stiff. Beat the egg whites to stiff peaks.

When the chocolate is completely melted, remove from the heat and pour the warm milk on to it through a sieve. Stir the chocolate and milk together till velvety.

Scoop the mixture on to the stiffly beaten egg whites and fold gently together with a large metal spoon (a thick wooden one will knock the air out). Now fold into the softly whipped cream. Scrape into a serving bowl or espresso cups and refrigerate for three or four hours till set. Dust with cocoa or serve with a jug of chocolate sauce.


Chocolate Espresso Cake
Serves 8

  • 180g fine dark chocolate, chopped
  • a small espresso (about 3 tablespoons very strong coffee)
  • 140g butter, diced
  • 5 free range eggs, separated
  • 200g golden caster sugar
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 2 tablespoons cocoa powder
  • 90g plain flour

Line the base of a 21­23cm shallow springform cake tin with silicone baking parchment, buttering the tin lightly to hold it in place.

Melt the chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water. As soon as it starts to soften, add the coffee and leave it for two or three minutes. Stir very gently, then when the chocolate has melted add the butter. Stir until it has melted.

Meanwhile, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer till stiff, then fold in the sugar. Mix the baking powder with the cocoa powder and flour. Remove the chocolate from the heat, quickly stir in the egg yolks, then slowly, firmly and gently fold the melted chocolate into the egg whites. Lastly sift in the flour and cocoa mixture.

Stir the mixture tenderly with a large metal spoon, taking care not to knock out any air. It should feel light and wobbly. Do not overmix ­ just enough to fold in the flour. Scoop into the lined tin and bake in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas 4 for thirty-five minutes. Leave to cool in its tin, then turn out.


No-Cook Chocolate Cake
Serves 8

  • 340g fine chocolate 90g each hazelnuts, almonds and Brazil nuts
  • 2 free range eggs
  • 75g raisins
  • 50g natural-dye glacé cherries
  • 75g digestive biscuits, roughly crumbled

Line a 20cm square cake tin with silicone baking parchment. You can use greaseproof but you may end up picking it off the finished cake bit by bit. Melt 230g of the chocolate and all the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over a moderate heat.

Spread the nuts on a baking sheet or grill pan and toast under a hot grill till the skins start to blister. Rub the nuts with a cloth, discard any of the skins that have flaked off and return the nuts to the grill until they are golden.

Remove the chocolate from the heat when completely melted and stir in most of the toasted nuts (reserve a few for decoration). Beat the eggs lightly with a fork and add to the chocolate and nuts with the raisins and most of the cherries. Stir in the crumbled biscuits, then spoon into the lined cake tin. Leave in the fridge overnight to set.

When the cake is completely set, melt the remaining chocolate in a small bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Pour the chocolate over the cake, then scatter over the reserved nuts and cherries and drizzle with any remaining melted chocolate. Turn out.


Chocolate Cornflake Cakes
Makes about 15

For all the gorgeous chocolate cakes around (and there are many), I still have a soft spot for these crunchy, chewy little cakes. I include them partly because when looking for a recipe for them recently I found it surprisingly difficult to find one. Oh come on, don¹t tell me you don¹t like them.

  • 50g butter
  • 4 tablespoons golden syrup
  • 100g good-quality plain chocolate
  • 75g cornflakes

Gently melt the butter, syrup and chocolate in a small, heavy pan. Stir in the cornflakes. Place large spoonfuls of the mixture on a buttered baking sheet and leave to set in the refrigerator.